We began and ended our trip in Madrid. It was easy to get around this active city, and travel by subway or on foot reminded us of Paris. Phoebe's ability to speak some Spanish was extremely valuable for all our living arrangements in Spain and Portugal.

At the beginning and end of our trip we had breakfast at the Museo del Jamon.

We expected Madrid to let us down but she didn't. We visited the Prado (saw the Goyas, El Grecos etc), then went boating in Retiro park behind it. We walked almost everywhere and had to keep reminding ourselves we were not in Paris. The palace is ranked near Versailles in opulence. We were charmed by the Plaza Mayor and whimsical art everywhere.